Tips for a New Electric Ceiling Heater

Electric ceiling heaters are designed for dens, basements, converted attics, breeze ways, garages, bathrooms, small offices, workshops and similar areas, designed for horizontal recessed installation, but is easily adapted for surface mounting.

DO NOT MOUNT THIS PRODUCT ON A WALL OR SLOPED CEILING

 

Electric ceiling heaters do not exhaust, they are fan forced which means it's designed to pull the cold air in through the heating element, and then shoot warm air out the other side of the ceiling heater.

When shopping for an electric wall heater, for a new construction job (not replacing an old heater) there are several things to consider:

1. Heater sizing by wattage
2. Voltage – basic guidelines
3. Noise Level of the heater
4. Thermostat / Timer
5. Looks of the grille
6. Heater location
7. Recessed vs. Surface mounting
8. Contact Us

 

1. Heater Sizing (How Big Is the Room You Want To Heat)
The first and most important step is “how big is the room you want to heat?” The heater has to be sized so it can heat the room on the coldest night of the year. For a house built in the last 20 years, or older houses that have be renovated with more insulation and new doors and window a quick rule of thumb is 10 watts per sq ft for ceiling 8’ or lower or 1.25 watts per cubic foot for ceilings higher then 9’.

Example small room:
Square footage = 10’W x 15’L = 150 (standard 7 to 8 foot ceiling)
Watts per Sq Ft = 10 to 12 watts (new construction few windows use 10 watts)
150 sq ft x 10 watts = 1,500 watt heater (select a 1,500 to 2,000 watt heater)
Example larger room:
Square footage = 25’W x 15’L = 375 (standard 7 to 8 foot ceiling)
Watts per Sq Ft = 10 to 12 watts (new construction few windows use 10 watts)
375 sq ft x 10 watts = 3,750 watt heater (select a 4,000 watt heater)

 

Always give yourself a safety factor by averaging up.

 

Cubic Foot Rule of Thumb:

 

Room size 10’ H x 15’w W 12’L = 1800 cubic ft
1800 cubic Ft x 1.25(your constant) = 2250
This room will need a minimum of 2250 watts of heat

 

Please visit our size chart page for more info or if you would like a true “heat load” look for software called “Manual J” online or consult an architect or mechanical engineer.

2. Voltage

Knowing your heater size needed and having the correct voltage are two of the most important things to know and understand before you purchase an electric heater. Electric heaters come in 120 and 240 volts. Some heaters only come in 120 volts, and some only come in 240.

Most homes in the United States have both 120v and 240v. If you have an electric stove, range, dryer or water heater in your home those are all running on 240 voltage. However, you must know which voltage is available WHERE you want to place your new heater.

 

120v to a 240v heater will give you ¼ of the wattage
240v to a 120v heater will burnout the heater and void the warranty
If you are not sure on your voltage you will want to consult a licensed electrician.

 

3. Noise Level

All fan forced ceiling heaters will make some noise. I tell customers over the phone when browsing our website the more expensive the ceiling heaters the quieter it’s going to be (this rule does not apply to our commercial grade wall heaters with a CFM greater then 100 ) because the internal parts are of a higher quality. If noise is not an issue any ceiling heater within your correct wattage and voltage parameters will work.

4. Looks of the Grille

5. Thermostat

Controlling a ceiling heater can be done with a wall thermostat or timer.  Wall thermostats are available in mechanical (type that’s been around for the past several decades ) or electronic with digital controls. Both mechanical and digital have the ability to turn on & off and set the temperature and will shut off when the temp is met.  Both will work just fine. Digital thermostats have a better sensor in reading the correct temp and if you get a digital programmable thermostat you can program it to turn on or off at a certain time.

When using a wall thermostat be sure to place it on an internal wall, ideally across from the windows. Avoid drafty areas, direct sunlight, and other heaters & electronics devices that can put out heat like computers or TV’s. Make sure you don’t place it behind a shelf or too close to pictures what will affect airflow around the thermostat's sensors.

Timers are another option, they come in spring wound or electrostatic. The ceiling heater will only come on if you turn the timer on and will shut off once the timer hit zero.

 

6. Heater Location and installation

This product is designed for horizontal ceiling installation only. DO NOT MOUNT THIS PRODUCT ON A WALL OR SLOPED CEILING. Do not install heater closer than 12" to any adjacent vertical surface. DO NOT install unit in a tub or shower enclosure.

NEVER place a switch where it can be reached from a tub or shower. DO NOT CONNECT HEATER TO DIMMER SWITCH.

The following instructions must be adhered to in order to avoid personal injuries or property damages, serious injuries and potentially fatal electric shocks.

Protect the heating unit with the appropriate circuit breaker or fuse, in accordance with the nameplate. Make sure the line voltage (volt) is consistent with that indicated on the unit’s nameplate. This unit must be grounded. Switch off the power at the circuit breaker/fuse before installing, repairing and cleaning the unit.

Please read specification label on product for further information and requirements.

This product must be installed by a qualified person and connected by a certified electrician, according to the electrical and building codes effective in your region

 

7. Recessed vs. Surface Mounting